SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION
Several factors should be considered before
selecting the planting site for a palm. If you have a
specific type of palm in mind, be sure to consider how
the plant will fit in the landscape in 10-15 years, when
it reaches maturity. Are there overhead utility wires,
buried cables, or irrigation lines? Would the palm
pose a hazard during a storm? Is the sun
exposure full, partial, or shade? As a general
landscaping rule, small lots with one story houses look
best with medium sized or smaller palms. Large
palms such as royals, washingtonias, and coconuts
look best when planted in large areas or in the
vicinity of larger buildings. Clusters of odd numbers
of palms (1, 3, 5) are generally more aesthetically
pleasing than even numbered groups, unless more
than seven are being planted in one area.
Consideration should be made of the type of soil
the palms will be planted in. Is it alkaline sand, coral
rock, clay, marl, or another soil-type? By knowing the
soil-type, it is often possible to predict certain nutrient
deficiencies and correct them preventively rather than
after the problem shows up.
PREPARING THE SOIL
For many years, it was felt necessary to amend
poor soils with organic material. Current planting
recommendations discourage the use of soil
amendments (such as peat moss) mixed with the back
fill. The ideal situation is to have the whole planting
area rich in organic material; if the planting hole is
filled with soil much better than that around it, the
roots may never penetrate the surrounding poor soil.
It is much more important that you apply a heavy
mulch around the trunk, using wood chips, cypress
bark, lawn clippings, or other similar material. As
this decomposes, it enriches the soil while also
reducing the weed competition and reducing water
consumption. Be sure to replace the mulch as it
decomposes. Keep a small circle (several inches)
around the trunk free of mulch.
Several factors should be considered before
selecting the planting site for a palm. If you have a
specific type of palm in mind, be sure to consider how
the plant will fit in the landscape in 10-15 years, when
it reaches maturity. Are there overhead utility wires,
buried cables, or irrigation lines? Would the palm
pose a hazard during a storm? Is the sun
exposure full, partial, or shade? As a general
landscaping rule, small lots with one story houses look
best with medium sized or smaller palms. Large
palms such as royals, washingtonias, and coconuts
look best when planted in large areas or in the
vicinity of larger buildings. Clusters of odd numbers
of palms (1, 3, 5) are generally more aesthetically
pleasing than even numbered groups, unless more
than seven are being planted in one area.
Consideration should be made of the type of soil
the palms will be planted in. Is it alkaline sand, coral
rock, clay, marl, or another soil-type? By knowing the
soil-type, it is often possible to predict certain nutrient
deficiencies and correct them preventively rather than
after the problem shows up.
PREPARING THE SOIL
For many years, it was felt necessary to amend
poor soils with organic material. Current planting
recommendations discourage the use of soil
amendments (such as peat moss) mixed with the back
fill. The ideal situation is to have the whole planting
area rich in organic material; if the planting hole is
filled with soil much better than that around it, the
roots may never penetrate the surrounding poor soil.
It is much more important that you apply a heavy
mulch around the trunk, using wood chips, cypress
bark, lawn clippings, or other similar material. As
this decomposes, it enriches the soil while also
reducing the weed competition and reducing water
consumption. Be sure to replace the mulch as it
decomposes. Keep a small circle (several inches)
around the trunk free of mulch.
WATERING
Water the root ball of the plant with a hose as it
is being planted. This will ensure that no air pockets
are trapped in the soil and will establish a good union
between the root ball and the existing soil. After
planting, a small (2-3 inch high) soil "dam" encircling
the plant will direct and concentrate future watering
to the root ball of the palm. Watering for the first
several months is critical. Never allow the soil to dry
out completely. It is also important not to overwater.
Overwatering not only encourages root diseases, but
it also discourages the establishment of new roots in
the surrounding soil.
TIME OF THE YEAR TO TRANSPLANT
Palms can be transplanted at any time of the year
although they establish themselves far more quickly
and with fewer problems if they are set out in the
spring and early summer. Palms do not grow as
rapidly during the winter months and several
experimental observations have shown that colddamage
is much more severe in palms that are not
well established. The dry winter season also requires
more irrigation to insure the survival of the newly
planted palm.
FERTILIZER
To establish a palm rapidly, a good fertilizer
program is necessary. For the first year, a foliar
micro-nutrient spray applied every three to four
months and a slow release granular fertilizer with a
3—1—3 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium
applied every four months will provide the optimum
results. After the first year, only the granular
fertilizer is required.
Water the root ball of the plant with a hose as it
is being planted. This will ensure that no air pockets
are trapped in the soil and will establish a good union
between the root ball and the existing soil. After
planting, a small (2-3 inch high) soil "dam" encircling
the plant will direct and concentrate future watering
to the root ball of the palm. Watering for the first
several months is critical. Never allow the soil to dry
out completely. It is also important not to overwater.
Overwatering not only encourages root diseases, but
it also discourages the establishment of new roots in
the surrounding soil.
TIME OF THE YEAR TO TRANSPLANT
Palms can be transplanted at any time of the year
although they establish themselves far more quickly
and with fewer problems if they are set out in the
spring and early summer. Palms do not grow as
rapidly during the winter months and several
experimental observations have shown that colddamage
is much more severe in palms that are not
well established. The dry winter season also requires
more irrigation to insure the survival of the newly
planted palm.
FERTILIZER
To establish a palm rapidly, a good fertilizer
program is necessary. For the first year, a foliar
micro-nutrient spray applied every three to four
months and a slow release granular fertilizer with a
3—1—3 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium
applied every four months will provide the optimum
results. After the first year, only the granular
fertilizer is required.
OTHER FACTORS
If you purchase a field-grown palm that has been
"balled and burlapped" but is not to be planted out
immediately, it is important to store the palm
properly. Most palms can remain out of the ground
for two to three days with no damage is they are kept
in a shady area and the root ball is watered daily.
Desiccation of the root ball will severely damage the
palm and reduce its chances of proper establishment.
When planting a "balled and burlapped" plant as
opposed to a containerized one, it is necessary to
remember that the plant is more likely to suffer from
transplant shock since the root system has been
severely reduced. Also, one should pay particular
attention to the burlap surrounding the roots. If,
after planting, a portion is exposed to the air it will
act as a "wick" drying out the soil and stressing the
roots. Complete coverage of the root ball and a
heavy layer of mulch will alleviate this problem.
Many palms also suffer from being planted too
deeply. This essentially suffocates the roots and
invites root diseases. As a general rule, one should
always plant a palm at the same depth as it was
initially grown.
Many palms are ideally suited for the SE and
provide much of the unique environment for which
the region is known for. Because of their relative ease of
culture and minimal pest and disease problems, they
should be prominently displayed in our landscape. By
observing the recommendations of this fact sheet you
can make palm trees an important part of your
landscape.
If you purchase a field-grown palm that has been
"balled and burlapped" but is not to be planted out
immediately, it is important to store the palm
properly. Most palms can remain out of the ground
for two to three days with no damage is they are kept
in a shady area and the root ball is watered daily.
Desiccation of the root ball will severely damage the
palm and reduce its chances of proper establishment.
When planting a "balled and burlapped" plant as
opposed to a containerized one, it is necessary to
remember that the plant is more likely to suffer from
transplant shock since the root system has been
severely reduced. Also, one should pay particular
attention to the burlap surrounding the roots. If,
after planting, a portion is exposed to the air it will
act as a "wick" drying out the soil and stressing the
roots. Complete coverage of the root ball and a
heavy layer of mulch will alleviate this problem.
Many palms also suffer from being planted too
deeply. This essentially suffocates the roots and
invites root diseases. As a general rule, one should
always plant a palm at the same depth as it was
initially grown.
Many palms are ideally suited for the SE and
provide much of the unique environment for which
the region is known for. Because of their relative ease of
culture and minimal pest and disease problems, they
should be prominently displayed in our landscape. By
observing the recommendations of this fact sheet you
can make palm trees an important part of your
landscape.
Shaded area represents best planting range
M
Palm Tree Guide
PRUNING
Pruning consists of removing the leaves or
inflorescence as they become senescent and
unsightly. Decapitating a palm below the crown and
leaves in an attempt to reduce the height
will kill the plant.
Sometimes freezing weather will impart injury to all
the leaves and possibly the bud. If
such an occurrence should take place, do not
hurriedly remove the plant, rather give the palm
time to recuperate. Some palms take as long as two
growing seasons to regenerate new growth.
Looking for new growth at the center of the crown
will give an indication of the status of the
palm. If new growth is not present by August of the
following year, removal is advised.
However, if new growth is observed, remove all
necrotic leaves, fertilize and irrigate as
necessary.
Propagation
While the majority of palm species are propagated by
seed, some palms may be
propagated by separation of offshoots from the main
trunk, an example being Phoenix reclinata
(Senegal Date Palm). There are a few others that
may be propagated by division or root clumps
where multi-trunked species exist. Examples of these
are Chamaerops humilis (Mediterranean
Date Palm) and Chamaedorea microspadix (Parlor
Palm).
Pruning consists of removing the leaves or
inflorescence as they become senescent and
unsightly. Decapitating a palm below the crown and
leaves in an attempt to reduce the height
will kill the plant.
Sometimes freezing weather will impart injury to all
the leaves and possibly the bud. If
such an occurrence should take place, do not
hurriedly remove the plant, rather give the palm
time to recuperate. Some palms take as long as two
growing seasons to regenerate new growth.
Looking for new growth at the center of the crown
will give an indication of the status of the
palm. If new growth is not present by August of the
following year, removal is advised.
However, if new growth is observed, remove all
necrotic leaves, fertilize and irrigate as
necessary.
Propagation
While the majority of palm species are propagated by
seed, some palms may be
propagated by separation of offshoots from the main
trunk, an example being Phoenix reclinata
(Senegal Date Palm). There are a few others that
may be propagated by division or root clumps
where multi-trunked species exist. Examples of these
are Chamaerops humilis (Mediterranean
Date Palm) and Chamaedorea microspadix (Parlor
Palm).
© 2000-2012 "tm" Majestic Landscaping Inc. All rights reserved
Pindo, Wine, Jelly (Butia capitata)
Light shaded area represents palm trees growing with none to some protection
Lighter shaded area represents some Sabal Minors & Needle Palms. Full protection for all other palms
I want to personally thank all the folks at http://members3.boardhost.com/HardyPalm
for all their input on the map. They are great people and fun to post with!
for all their input on the map. They are great people and fun to post with!
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Services Contact Us Images Windmill Palm Palmettos Produce Pindo Palm CIDP
Butterfly Palm Bismarck Palm Blue Latan Palm Chinese Fan Palm Fishtail Palm Foxtail Palm
Saw Palmetto Needle Palm Majesty Palm Queen Palm Sago Planting Palms
Palm Tree News Soil Map Site Map Washingtonia Palm
Map of Palm trees in North America
Webmaster D&K Graphics
